The world of high-end watchmaking is a realm of precision, craftsmanship, and innovation, and the Ferdinand Berthoud brand has certainly made its mark since its revival in 2015. With a remarkable trajectory, the brand has captured the attention of collectors and industry experts alike, earning prestigious awards and accolades. Today, we delve into the latest chapter of this brand's story, the Mesure du Temps 1787 collection, and its flagship timepiece, the Chronomètre FB 2TV Flying Tourbillon.
A New Chapter Unveiled
The Mesure du Temps 1787 collection is a testament to the brand's commitment to pushing boundaries and celebrating its rich horological heritage. Named after a seminal work by Ferdinand Berthoud himself, this collection marks a significant evolution in the brand's journey. The Chronomètre FB 2TV, with its flying tourbillon, is a masterpiece that showcases the brand's unwavering focus on chronometry and an unwavering dedication to craftsmanship.
The Movement: A Spectacle of Innovation
At the heart of this timepiece lies a movement that is nothing short of extraordinary. With a diameter of 35.60mm, the hand-wound calibre FB-TV.FC boasts a pillar architecture reminiscent of its predecessor, the FB-T.FC. However, this movement is a true evolution, incorporating a fusee-and-chain mechanism and a flying tourbillon, both signature Berthoud mechanisms, but entirely reengineered for this model. The result is a display that is truly breathtaking, with a 3D architecture comprising an impressive 1,240 components, including a staggering 777 elements dedicated to the chain alone. This intricate mechanism requires nearly 300 hours of meticulous manual finishing, a testament to the brand's uncompromising standards.
A Tourbillon with a Twist
One of the most fascinating aspects of the Chronomètre FB 2TV is its flying tourbillon. With a diameter of 15mm, the tourbillon's cage features a unique design with three arms, alternating between flat and sloping sections. Running at 21,600 vibrations per hour, it boasts a variable inertia balance with four 18-carat gold fine-adjustment screws and a spring with a Phillips terminal curve. This tourbillon is not just a technical marvel but also a visual delight, adding to the overall aesthetic appeal of the timepiece.
Precision and Functionality
In keeping with the brand's focus on chronometry, the movement includes two rare yet meaningful functions in the context of a tourbillon: a stop balance wheel and a second hand reset. These features allow for precise time-setting, ensuring accuracy down to the second. Pulling the crown to the time-setting mode stops the movement, and a pusher coaxial to the crown resets the second hand. What's even more impressive is that this second reset function can be used while the movement is running in "fly-back" mode, potentially enabling short-time interval measurements. This innovative feature is made possible by a specially shaped cam and a lever, both visible at the back of the watch.
Redesigned Components for Enhanced Performance
The Chronomètre FB 2TV showcases the brand's dedication to continuous improvement. The fusée-and-chain mechanism has been entirely redeveloped, with a different orientation and geometry. It now features a double superimposed Maltese cross-type stopwork system and two stopwork fingers, limiting its operating range to maintain a constant energy delivery, thus enhancing rate stability and overall accuracy. Even the flying barrel has been redesigned, with its drum now free of grooves, reducing friction during winding and unwinding. The power reserve indication cone, now located on the dial side, has also been redesigned, providing a more stable torque and increasing the power reserve from 53 to 60 hours. Winding is faster, too, with approximately 6.25 turns of the crown.
A Case of Elegance
The 44mm x 15.46mm round case, crafted from ethical 18k white gold, is a work of art in itself. Its shape draws inspiration from the Remontoir d'Egalité FB 2RE, with two box sapphire crystals offering a clear view of the intricate movement. The off-centered hours and minutes dial, with its white varnished base and engraved black varnished track, provides a clean and legible display. The ultra-thin central seconds hand allows for precise time reading on the white lacquered inner bezel ring. This timepiece is a true masterpiece, both in terms of its technical prowess and its aesthetic appeal.
A Limited Offering
While not a limited edition, the Ferdinand Berthoud Mesure du Temps 1787 Chronomètre FB 2TV is expected to be produced in extremely limited quantities, with only 10 to 12 timepieces per year due to its complexity and the workshop's capacity. Priced at EUR 383,000, including taxes, this timepiece is a true collector's item, reserved for those who appreciate the finest in horological craftsmanship and innovation.
Final Thoughts
The Chronomètre FB 2TV Flying Tourbillon is a testament to the brand's unwavering dedication to its horological heritage and its commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking. With its innovative movement, precise functions, and exquisite craftsmanship, this timepiece is a true masterpiece. It is a reminder that, in the world of high-end watchmaking, the pursuit of perfection knows no bounds. The Mesure du Temps 1787 collection opens a new chapter in the brand's story, and we can't wait to see what the future holds for Ferdinand Berthoud.
